Cotton Candy Baskets

Cotton Candy Baskets
Quilt Pattern

68" x 80"

© Kathy Somers 1995
All Rights Reserved

Get you and your family some real Cotton Candy from an Online Candy Store and share in a tradition together.

*For this pattern, you need to buy or dye 8 graded shades of four different cotton candy colors (3/8 to 1/2 yard of each of 32 fabrics) and 1/4 yard of solid black. Cherrywood Fabrics make good graduated sets, among others. To dye your own, see the directions at:


*Cut each fabric into 1" wide strips across the width of the fabric. Using a 'Little Foot' to avoid seam allowances that could push your presser foot off, sew them into strip sets as shown. You need to sew with a VERY accurate 1/4" seam so that your strip sets will measure precisely 4-1/2" when sewn. Press each seam, when sewn, toward the darker shade of fabric and your strips will lock together, helping you sew a nice, straight strip. Plan so that each seam is sewn in the opposite direction than the seam before it to avoid the 'growth' of one edge. You should have at least eight each of the following strip sets (sew extra for binding, if desired):

*Cross cut six of each strip into 4-1/2" squares. You should have at least 60 each of the following squares:

*Cut the black fabric into 4-1/2" squares. Lay your squares out as shown:

*Sew these together, pressing seams so they lie in opposite directions when sewn. Your block should measure 12-1/2" square and look like this:

*Sew the blocks into six rows of five blocks each, pressing seams so they will lie in opposite directions when sewn. Sew the rows together, matching corners carefully. Your top should measure 60-1/2" x 72-1/2" at this point.

*To make the borders, take the two leftover strip sets of each color and re-press one of each so that the seams lie toward the lighter shades. This is necessary so the seams will lock together and match. Sew each color strip set into a long strip. Cut the green and yellow strips 64-1/2" inches. Cut the pink and blue strips 76-1/2".

*Lay the dark side of the yellow strip along the top edge of the quilt top opposite the yellow side of the blocks (the yellow side of the blocks will be on the bottom, while the yellow border strip is on top). Partially stitch the first seam, leaving the last half unsewn. Now, lay the pink border strip along the left edge of the quilt and sew the entire seam. Press the seam toward the border and trim to square the corner if necessary. Repeat with the green strip at the bottom and the blue strip at the right edge. Finish sewing the last seam (yellow strip) and press. Your top should measure 68-1/2" x 80-1/2" and look like this:

*To make the binding, cross cut any remaining strips (if you made extra for this), using a rotary cutting ruler with a 45 degree line. Place this line along the center seam and cut the strips 4" wide. Sew the bias strips together randomly or in any pattern you like to make at least 200" of bias binding. Press this in half lengthwise.

*Quilt by hand or machine in the ditch of every seam, crossing right thru the black squares (it helps to mark the lines) so that they are crosshatch quilted 1/2" in both directions, as shown:

*Start in the middle of one side and apply the binding to the front of the quilt, matching raw edges and stitching 5/8" away from the edge. Stitch to within 5/8" of the end and stitch off the corner at a 45 degree angle. as shown:

*Turn the quilt 90 degrees counter-clockwise. Miter the corners by folding the binding straight up and then back down to match the next edge and begin stitching at the edge as shown:

*When you get to within 12" of where you started, end off stitching. Overlap the ends and mark, on the folds, a place where the two ends overlap. Open the binding and place the ends face to face so that they are perpendicular to each other, matching the mark. Stitch across the ends to make a 45 degree seam, as shown:

*Trim binding seam allowance to 1/4" and press to one side. Finish stitching the binding down. Turn the binding to the back and hand stitch down, folding the corners to match the miter on the front.

For further information, contact:

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Page Last Modified on: 12/13/06
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